Problems you can check yourself first
Before calling anyone, rule out the simple causes. Make sure the machine has power and the water tap is open, that the door is fully closed, and that the load is not unbalanced or too heavy. Check the drain filter and the drain hose for blockages or kinks. These checks sort out a surprising number of callouts.
Signs that point to a real fault
The drum does not spin, or spins weakly
If the drum will not turn, or the final spin leaves clothes soaking wet, the cause can be a worn drive belt, a motor problem, a faulty control board, or a drain pump that is not emptying the tub. A machine that fills and washes but never spins is a classic case.
Water stays in the drum
Standing water after a cycle usually means a blocked or failed drain pump, a clogged hose, or a faulty water-level sensor. If clearing the filter does not help, stop using the machine, as a heavy load of water on a failing pump can make things worse.
Leaks around the door or base
Small drips can come from a loose hose connection or too much detergent, but regular puddles point to a split door seal, a cracked hose or a failing pump seal. Do not ignore these. Water near electrics and on floors is a safety risk, and it can damage the flooring and the apartment below.
Loud banging, grinding or squealing
A thumping spin cycle can simply be an unbalanced load. A constant rumbling or grinding, especially when the empty drum is turned by hand, often means worn drum bearings. Squealing can be a slipping belt. Bearings are best replaced early, as continued use can damage the drum.
The door will not open, or will not lock
Machines lock the door during a cycle and for a short time afterwards. If the door stays locked long after the cycle has ended with no water in the drum, the door lock or its control may have failed. Do not force the door.
Error codes that keep returning
An error code that clears after a restart may be a one-off. One that comes back every time points to a sensor, valve, pump or board that needs attention. Your manual lists what each code means, and a photo of the display helps a technician prepare before the visit.
Burning smell, sparks or a tripping breaker
Switch the machine off at the wall and stop using it. These are electrical warning signs and should be checked by a technician before the machine is used again.
Repair or replace?
As a rough rule of thumb, repairs make sense when the machine is relatively young, the fault is a common part such as a pump, belt, valve, seal or door lock, and the cost is well below the price of a comparable new machine. If the machine is very old, has had several faults in a short time, or the repair would cost about half the price of a replacement, it is worth weighing up a new one. A good technician should tell you honestly which side of that line you are on.
How to get the most from a repair visit
- Note the brand, model number and what the machine does and does not do.
- Take a photo of any error code and of the label inside the door or on the back.
- Mention how old the machine is and whether it has been repaired before.
- Clear a path to the machine and, if it is leaking, turn off the water tap.
If you are seeing any of these signs, our washing machine repair team can inspect the machine at home. For prevention, see how to keep your washing machine running longer.
